knowing status of connection tracking (conntrack)

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http://serverfault.com – I want to write a script which runs a command or a bunch of commands to check if connection tracking is enabled. Or if any connection is being tracked. Basically knowing if any iptables rule is added that would track connections or is tracking connections. Any suggestions? I have been trying out thing with listing tables with iptables list commands but I think there should be a more straightforward way. (HowTos)